Signatur December 2016 Newsletter 72

A sideways slant on knitting

Knitting is all about texture and one of the simplest and most classic stitch textures is cable, the keystone to traditional Irish and Scottish Aran & Guernsey fisherman knits.

Knitting cable sideways in my range of drapes and cardigans combines with stepped edges and waterfall collars to create truly unique garments from classic techniques....

For winter 2016 I designed the Billy Drape Jacket knitted sideways so the cables presented horizontally. I didn't want the waterfall collar that is mostly used on sideways knit designs, so instead I experimented by taking the collar stitches out of action. The result? Both the collar and body of the piece are seamless. I am really pleased with the results and the pictures really show the difference between the collar styling & waterfall collar...

New Signatur 8-ply colours now available

New colours Ruby, Buttermilk and Filigree add to Signatur's stunning range of 8-ply Pure New Wool delights.

To receive a new and FREE 2017 shade card please email jane@sigknit.com with your mailing details

Handmade Market Canberra @ EPIC Sat 10th & Sun 11th Dec 10am to 4pm.

The move to Exhibition Park In Canberra (EPIC) has been wonderful and the show has expanded to take in even more Australian-made goods from artisan designers and makers. Both Signatur finished garments and Signatur/Ozeyarn knitting kits are on display to buy or to custom order at the show.

www.facebook.com/signaturhandknits

What creates the drape and high-waisted fit of sideways knit garments?

Experimenting is the fun element of design - let's see what happens when, say,...we knit sideways, knitting front edge to front edge. Left, the Tootsie Drape, is knitted simply as an oblong with armholes and no hemline or collar shaping, resulting in the front hem hanging longer than the back hemline: very cute! Below shows the waterfall collar worn similar to the back image & the Tootise worn upside down as a longer style.   Right is the Lava Drape from my book, I love the high-waisted fit and fishtail hemline. This piece has both collar and hemline shaping.

Resolving fit issues and discovering what the drape created....

Tootsie Drape was one of my first sideways  knitted designs. Worked in Corrugated Garter Stitch which behaves like a rib, the finished garment is reversable and can also be worn upside-down.  Not ''everybody' is suited to the short back styling. The longer the back the longer the front/side of the drape, as you see in the image to the right. So add length to the back but not to the fronts. The Boxes Drape below in Cherry Red was the next design I created. This really shows the waterfall collar well & also shows how the excess of this collar can be wrapped and pinned.

Shaping and its effect on yarn choice

Boxes Drape below left in Cherry Red has increase shaping into the collar and hemline and this elminates the long fronts & reduces the amount of yarn needed to knit this design. Right is a similar version of Boxes Drape, from Swing, Swagger, Drape page 58 & 60. I made a few changes to the design, which allows this piece to be knitted in different weights & yarn thicknesses. The finer the yarn the shorter the pieces. Thicker yarn shown right knits longer. When knitted as a vest, as in the book, it can also be worn upside down, like Tootsie above.   With Zig Zag Drape below right in Brick Red, the back length is stepped working to the repeat with the basket stitch, as with the Miami Drape design below. The Zig Zag pattern is worked between cables and basket stitch. This can also be knitted longer, like most of my designs.

Miami Drape and Zig Zag Drape both have stepped edges adding length into the back.

The stepped Edge on Miami Drape left is really apparent in this image. The basket stitch is my template for the stepped edge, as it is in the Zig Zag Drape above. Another important design element when working a waterfall collar, or any turn-back collar is to incorporate a reversible stitch technique, so you never see an ugly join or wrong side of your knitting. To create reversible fabrics my favourite stitches have to be Corrugated Garter and Basket. The collar of the Miami Drape is knitted 2 rows per colour which gives a two-tone effect resulting in one colour dominating each reversible side.

Drapes and Waterfall Collars

Below: the Waterfall collar of the Zig Zag Drape or stand-up collar of the Billy Drape Jacket make a huge difference to the line and look of the garment. You can see the construction of a waterfall collar very clearly above where the collar runs the length of the piece from front edge to front edge. For the Billy Drape Jacket stand-up collar I simply took the collar stitches out of action over the shoulder shaping. I added short row shaping because without the excess of the fronts the fish tail A-line back is lost. Short rows are a great way to easily create an A-line. The high waist is simply achieved with the correct fit over the shoulders.  This is shown very clearly below. N.B. Side ways knit drape styles do not work as drop shoulder, as they would create too much width. A deeper armhole is very accommodating as a fit for this piece. In 90% of my designs I add a little A line into the hemline. In the less generous styles this has been decreased before the armhole. I'll explore this topic in more detail in another newsletter.

Mitre hasn't escaped the Sideways tilt

Mitred Drape Vest pattern or knitting kits again knitted sideways, the body and two-tone collar are knitted as one. The basket stitch is used as the template to pick up stitches for the Mitres on completion of the body. Right Billy Drape Jacket in sequoia worn unbuttoned, with the collar turned back you can see there are no seams or ugly joins at the collar edge. Above in cream you can see the asymmetric hem on the back. This has been picked up from the body and knitted down, the long side has short rows making it longer in the back but matched in length at the front.

Designers On Show 2017 at Turramurra - we're back!

Designers on Show is back at Turramurra Friday 24th to Sunday 26th March. Fri/ Sat 9.30am to 6pm Sunday 9.30am to 4.30pm In 2016 our show clashed with Easter weekend, we struggled with dates and another venue - but we're back and bigger in 2017 with your favourite artisans as well as some great new local designers. www.facebook.com/designersonshow

Here's a little reminder of some previous years exhibitors.

Left to Right: Aharoni Jewelry, artist Jane Stapleford, Denise Smith glass, hand-dyed colours from Belisa Cashmere, felted scarf from Bronwyn Hunter, detail of a straw hat from Jennifer Walker, Penelope Shilling cotton & Linen ladies clothing, Merino by Belissa with a range of wraps and shrugs.

Next newsletter Cowls and Collar

If you'd like to discuss anything in this newsletter - or anything at all, please email Jane. Thanks for your support - Laura, Petra, Philippa, and I look forward to seeing you in the knitting circle!